European Hardbutt tour 2010

by fishytails

5000 Miles, 9 Nations on my motorbike  crossing Europe.

I would like to thank:

“WestLondon Yamaha”

“We love Pizza” London Camden stablemarkets

“Pippobike” via San Donato Bologna

for theirs support and all my friends and people who believed in me successfuly completing this trip.

I believe that you need 3 fundamental things in order to travel long distances by motorbike:

two wheels with an engine ,  some petrol along the way and the desire to go places and to Me that one, sure does not lack…

At times when i was driving in total solitude,  thinking  if  I was living a dream and  realizing that i was that dream my heart  would fill up with joy so  I would let go of the grip  from the handle-bar and with my arms wide open to the sky  I would scream like a madman, oh yes ! because in order to do what I am doing  I must be mad , mad like Van Gogh!

Six months ago `when I have had that strange idea popping into my head I did not succeed well into realizing  to what I would have encounter along the distance, although  I’ve tried to plan of good part of the trip there has always been surprises and discoveries for which I was not prepared for, of  places, persons and of myself, I still today notice to have endured an inner change during that trip and a curious and positive approach has created those moments that we dare to call Magical, I am  sure that the years passing by will never cancel  those hidden memorable days hidden within me which i could  visit every time I feel the need of it and without asking  permission to anyone.

Encounter with the Gendarmerie

I adore taking the Channel tunnel, we motorcyclist are left together in a wagon,  like old friends finally reunited talking with zest and energy, about our travels and our destinations .  At 20.00 pm the train that has left Folkestone arrives to Calais opens the doors leaving us free to run about wherever it please us all heading in various directions,  I have in program to drive all  night from Calais to the Dunes of Pyla close to Bordeaux  the first stage of this travel,  15 hours approximately, loaded with adrenalin and  the desire to go places  15 hours on a saddle driving a motorcycle into the night  do not scare me at all. I am well equipped for the night ride I have secured one red blinking lights for bicycles  on the bag loaded on the passenger seat, I am wearing a fluorescent yellow vest  and added two auxiliary lights on the front of the bike. I am driving through villages nearly difficult to notice, passing long and desolate countryside roads interrupted only by an occasional roundabout or a traffic light , I drive serenely always finding service-station without problems quickly milling miles, towards the 2.30 am in a dark desolate road singing my throat out, I notice from the rear-view mirrors two flashing blue lights , I wonder where are they going at this time of the night?, I recognize the police car and I move myself on the right in order for them  to overtake me when they flash me I understand that those two blue lights are only there for me, i wonder what i have done this time? I raise the right arm waving it up and down clarifying my intention to stop at the first lay-by, they quickly stop beside me, it’s the Gendarmerie, two  young Gendarmes appears with serious faces, so i remove the helmet, the earplugs and quickly switch off the bike and  my first reaction was of asking:

Parle `vou italienne? We can speak English, answers the older  of the two.

They asking  me the paperwork’s for the bike which they barely observe, when the older of the two begins explaining to me:   in France, when passing through villages and town the speed limit is  50km/h and you  instead, were  driving at 115km/h, with my eyes opens wide i don’t say a word as to prevent worsening the situation  await for my verdict knowing to have made it big this time:  listens! he says the older guy, I am going to say it to you in French, if the next time we find you driving that fast , we take your bike, rip to pieces your driving license and you go home on your foot, showing me the first two fingers intervalling each other in a walking motion , and I understand everything even the  fear that He tries to transmit to me.

They’re letting me go on with my travels: god that was close ,  where the heck  were they  hidden? This travel could have end even before  it began! Better be careful.

Driving all  night on a motorbike was one thing that I had  never done before , but I was very ready  for it, it carried a morbid curiosity within and an attractive sense of danger hard to resist. Driving at night brings a sense of awareness and the infallible ability to lock up your thoughts within yourself while isolating you from all the distractions  around,   the sight of the first lights at dawn carries a  pleasant relief  and also a  bit of fatigue.

The Dunes of Pyla, on the Atlantic coast of France with its landscape of marine Pines, where behind I catch a glimpse of the high dunes as a longest sand wall is a sight difficult to forget. I stand on my feet on the foot pegs with the eyes opens wide open, just like a child who plants outside the head from the window to its arrival at  its first vacation to the seaside. I find a campsite I plant the tent, unload the bike , I put the swimming shorts on and I precipitate myself towards Dunes, at the highest point they are 100 meters high ,in order to go up  you must use a set of stepladder laid on the sand, all joint together to the top with a slope of 30%  its quite a hike, at the top the Atlantic  sea it’s there  in all its splendour,  a blue cobalt sea with some sailing boat, a group of persons bathing down the beach and the Dunes that extend for a couple of miles  to both sides,   i start taking  photos and remain to observe two boys doing paragliding until the weather turns bad.

I spend the rest of the day at the campsite eating at the restaurant and smoking cigarettes under the gazebos waiting for the rain to stop without a positive signal,  going to bed with the rain and at  6 am and waking up from the rain that continues to strike on the tent,  with a bad mood and the eyes  swollen up from the lack of  sleep I dress myself  on my knees inside the tent load the bags on the bike and runaway from it all towards the Basque Countries hoping to leave behind all that rain asking me why the hell I took  the tent with me promising  myself  not to go camping anymore and at the first occasion to get rid of the bloody thing .

Pleasant Surprises in Spain

The rain does not want to stop, arrived in the city centre of Saint Sebastian the situation seems even worse,  I  jump this stage trying  towards  mid Spain to the feet of the Pyrenees. 5 hours of driving and  close to Pamplona the rain seems to calm itself , my underwear is soaking wet and in the  need of rest, i score for cover in the centre of Pamplona only to find no rooms available every time introducing myself  at the Reception with the trouser and the jacket dripping water on the pavement leaving a paddle every time I leave , I am not used  to introduce myself in this way , fortunately at the third attempt  I find a room at the  Europa Hotel right next to the bull arena, it looks a bit of a luxury  for my wallet but they have a room available full-optional  at 60€ , I  don’t even blink  yearning  a warm bath.

After pampering in the room I decide to go out discovering Pamplona . It’s a  bit of a village with a medieval  twist, walking around i soon understand why Hemingway spoke of it with much ardour, in few week  the Festival of San Fermin will start, where they leave the Bulls free to run for the city while humans will run for the life away from them, but I cannot wait for it. I am looking for a bar in the vicinities choosing a crowded one, where i enter only to find: sawdust spread on the floor  in order to dry the pavement from the bathed shoes that I haven’t   seen  in years, rowdy road workers with their bright orange uniforms smoking in the face of the  bartender waiting for their coffees at the counter, elderly locals  equally rowdy and I,  that not knowing how to behave  I come near to the counter lighting  a cigarette and blowing  the smoke in the face of the bartender I order a sandwich  and a  glass of Rioja.

I have always tried to avoid Spain in other travels because, I have always considered it as ideal and easy destination of   the mass of tourist  despising its popularity but in 10 minutes I find myself at real ease when they says: who despises buys…   Viva Espagna!

Towards the evening the time seems not to improve, anxiously I watch the weather forecast on TV listening to it on various channels, a cloud loaded with rain seems to swirl around the Pyrenees my next destination, then I see the south of France flooded from torrential rains so badly that car were floating away on roads that became small rivers, it hasn’t rain so badly  since 1940, 20 people died  and the situation on the Pyrenees does not seem sure and promising.  In the morning I woke up open the curtains and more rain is falling, I always imagine Spain as the place you come to look for the sun and  this rain is tiring me out, with all the determination I have I  decides  to head South towards Barcelona promising myself  that if I do not find the sun there, I will go  to Morocco!

Along the way the situation improves, I take a deviation towards Las Banderas a semi-desert Mountain range seating between Pamplona and Zaragoza that occupies a space of 45ooo hectares. I had seen it on a brochure  in  Pamplona immediately attracting my attention, the idea to savour  the desert here in Spain on a motorcycle for my very first time was  an  irresistible temptation difficult to refuse. With a small local aid I find it driving into  a dirty road  who seems to cross it, around  me only  red sand, sporadic bushes and small red hills  formed by the water erosion and wind, the horizon seems not to end.

While driving it,  I come to think if something goes wrong with the bike , I make  accounts of the resources; I have a full tank of petrol, a little bread and prosciutto, two chocolate tablets, a bottle of beer naturally San Miguel, and a water bottle at this point warm so I believe i will make it,  at least for tonight.

I am driving for a good half hour avoiding craters as large as the motorcycle and sharp rock ready to bite my  rubbers if i don’t pay attention, reached a crossway with my stomach churning I switch off the bike open the beer,   I make a sandwich with Prosciutto  then sat on the red earth I take a break in a peace never tried before well satisfied of my Exploration.

I resume the way for Barcelona covering the National Road a the A1, an endless road that crosses Spain, there are the flood of Truck drivers who follow each other in a procession that at time they all seem like a long train, ready to kiss you goodbye if mistakenly judge an overtaking manoeuvre, it seems that all the Truck drivers of the Iberian Peninsula are using it,  a road that I would only recommend to the worse of my friends. Reached the circular road of Barcelona, I catch a glimpse the city far away in distance, and the sea surrounding it, the city seems immense, my heart fills with Joy and I start to sing a song of the Queen: BARCELOOONA! BARRCEELOOOOOONAAA it was the first Time that we meet!!! ….

Not knowing where to go out of instinct I choose the sign “Litoral of the Mar” which takes me right into the City, I can feel vibrating all around, floods of people and Motorbikes and Scooters overtaking me like rockets  from left and right, everyone riding in short and Flip-flops, full Palm-lined avenues, the warmest sun and the sight of the Mediterranean.

I find lodging in a Hostel right next to the Monument of the colonizer Cristoforo Columbus (the Monument at the Colon), Miguel the owner is a bold 60 years old man with a vague resemblance to Pablo Picasso, He gives me a brief introduction on how to behave in the alleyways and narrow lanes at night, then He fixes me  in a room that sleeps twelve,  with six bunk beds  left to them self  ignore it all and  in 15min. I am on the beach watching a group of girls playing Beach Volley.

My mood is definitely on the high side in the evening at the Hostel I get invited from Giorgio a Brazilian guy and Kota a Japanese, to join them; Giorgio seems a classic Brazilian son of Italian emigrates, a clean face  with light hairs , Kota instead has black hairs held together in a pony tail revealing  the shaved hairs around the neck and his guitar, He says to me that this evening they have been invited at  a bar to play, but at our arrival the bar was already closed therefore we decide to go around town towards the Ciutad Veja ( the old city)  where a group of Spanish, sat on the floor  drinking  beer and chatting, recognize Him  inviting  us all  to join them, Kota soon  pulls out the guitar beginning with Japanese songs that nobody seems too much interested in, then singing songs of the Beatles which He knows all of them , we begun to sing infecting the other groups of people to sing along, passing my first night  Barcelona being sure that when in Barcelona you can always have fun.

The following day Kota and Bruno  take a ferry that goes to Rome instead I spend the day at beach and exploring the city , the third day instead I join a group of , two South Africans girls, Victoria and Esmeralda, two Americans Jordynn and Camila and two Canadian guys Karl and Colton, they spent a week already and know the wright places to  go, all together we go  to the Bar Marsella behind Les Ramblas, it is the oldest bar in Barcelona and famous  to serve Absinth, and the bar looks like the oldest one in Barcelona, the  brown wall paint is peeling off the walls , the  empty bottles on the shelves have collected so much dust along the year  that in order to dust them off  you’ll need a chisel and the  Bar is full of of people having a good time drinking Absinth, we order some our self, we get given seven pre-filled glass with absinth, few plastic bottles of water with the caps pierced and some sugar cubes. To prepare yourself a drink you have to soak the sugar cubes into the Absinth, then letting rest on a small fork sitting on the glass rim you set it on fire adding water from the bottles into the insider of the glass without extinguish the flame, the flavour is bitter like an herbal drink, and going down it warms the stomach, warmth that towards the second glass seems to scattered  all around the body,  inebriated  from the Alcohol we spend the rest of the evening there. The following morning i wave goodbye to everyone and as last surprise a gathering of Harley-Davidson is cruising  on the road of adjacent the Hostel, I  jump on the saddle  quickly blending with them without problems, cruising along them all the way up to Gaudi Park, where  I detach from the  gathering heading for my way very happy  knowing that I could not have left  Barcelona in a better way .

Lusso and Casino’

At this point reached the fifth day of the travel I have already covered more than 2000 Miles, I recognize my limits, I am in complete tune with the motorbike, I know to my bones where I have arranged all within the bags,  I’ve  learned how to drink from the bottle of the water arranged in the front  bags taking what I need without stopping , the continuous motion go on , millions of revolutions inside the engine,  litres of petrol  that slide inside the tubes like blood that slides inside the veins, I ask myself how this all possible,  this continuous motion that goes infinitely, it all must be magic, while We milling  Miles.

Driving on the  via Aurelia, one of the  famous road built by the Romans, with the sight of the sea I pass Nizza , Antibbe, Saint Jean the Pin then I see the sign Montecarlo and BAHM! As a lightning bolt  I see the Prince, the Casino `, the  Formula 1,  these are  my memories of Montecarlo and this is my occasion to see it in  person,  following  the indications without hesitation I  comes down towards the city , it glitters with Luxury, Houses and Villa finely decorated, a Policeman at  every angle of the road;  what a life they do here? dirty from the travels on a motorcycle with bags hanging out at every angle  I feel a bit out of place.

I find a  tourist office, dressed like a hardcore biker I enter, my  T-shirt collar is a greyish colour, high motorcycle boots  over to the Jeans, Helmet at hand and with a striking breath I present  myself to the counter where a Beautiful blonde woman, high 1,80 with a long  celestial dressing  and a  gold Necklace around Her neck that is worth as much as my motorcycle, with a bit of shame of what I am about to ask her in a country where an Espresso coffee can cost 5 € with a timid voice I ask Her if there are any Hostel in Montecarlo, Yes !  She’s answers me, If you want I can ring and ask if they have a free space?

I can hardly believe it ,  she gives a map to me of the city with the path marked by Her, I follow it all the way along  the seaside,  passing through millionaire Villas all with the name on it  until I find the Hostel, it’s a beautiful three storey Villa on the Sea with a terrace  so wide that there is enough space for a skating ring and all for 18€! I feel  like a Richman with four dimes in pocket.

Arranged in depandance I  encounter the room companions,  5 Irish boys who have travelled in  France by  bicycle and a gentleman on his 50’s that arrives in the room listening the world cup matches with the ears glued to a small portable radio, We greet each other in French when I notice a strong Italian accent, his name is  Roberto He was born in Italy in the town of  Pistoia but grown up  in France, He has greying hairs  and brown colour teeth every quarter of  an hour, when He laughs from the effort coughs without control. Telling me His story it confesses me that has worked everywhere to Montecarlo in houses  of rich people but has never be able to keep hold of the job and His monies that has always spends  at the Casino `.

They serve us on the terrace, vegetable soup, Lasagne, Cheeses and a fruit salad, We all eat together with the sight of the sea until dawn, then the Irish boys are going  to Montecarlo with 10 bottles , into plastic carrier bags, of Desperado a brand of beer mixed with Tequila, I instead finished the chat with Roberto I explore the roads of Montecarlo, coming down stepping  behind the Casino `and the tunnel that I have always seen in TV where the formula 1 cars are going full throttle,  where I lean on the petrol tank  imagining  an insistent contest when, without hearing  them,  two local motorcyclist shoots pass me reaching point-blank disappearing and the first bend, surely I have lost this contest. I end the stroll passing from the Port where hundreds of Panfili and Yacht are moored, to  stop at the sight of the Casino `an on the step of the fountain I stay there to write postcards.

An English Man in its own country

My next destination is the Cinque Terre (five lands), than I have  never seen and not  knowing that  existed in Italy, if it had not been for Australian friends who have always told me  perhaps I would never discovered them. The name  Cinque Terre originate   from the five villages that forms it: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore forming a National Park and Unesco heritage of a beauty famous  in the world.  I find a campsite arranged into terraces dipped shadowed by the Olives tree a small Oasis, even if I  promises myself to discard this option yearning for a dip in the blue Sea I camp in good humour forgetting about the last negative experience in the rain.

I spend the first day at the  beach in Levanto sunbathing like a Lizard, on  the second day wishing  to see the Five Lands, I ask advice at the receptionist where the more beautiful places are, and with the map in hand marked I head towards Vernazza  15 miles away , passing  for the mountain up and down  for roads sometimes with  dangerous bends  but with the beautiful sights on the coast,  the bends seem endless after nearly an hour of driving and drunk of bends I asks myself:  where the heck I am going? , perhaps I have taken a wrong turn,  a bit more than i will head back , then the road sign  for Vernazza that says 1 miles appears, I grin the teeth and I begin to go down for a private road with a slab that blocks the passage to the cars,  where I begin to see some houses, that looks like they have been built  after the second world war all colour with  pastel colours, the alleyways with small restaurants and Bars, tourist taking  pictures and the sunlight that leaks  through an alley formed by two houses  then Bahm! the limpid Ligurian Sea that hits the wharf, overlapping Houses on the rocks wright above the sea, the harbour  overflow with  small wooden boats  with a beauty to leave me  open-mouthed and people me scattered on the cliffs laying  on the towel sunbathing, a true hidden jewel.

The cliffs

the sea clapper

there isn’t other place

in which I would want to be

this primordial call

takes me back to the origins of my Being.

Hidden places and  primary colours

the simple life slides round

I’ve nearly forgot what means

leading a Life

in harmony with the sea.

I spend the rest of the day together with  the local people who fishes on  of the Wharf in all tranquillity , tranquillity only interrupted by the scattering  of the waves , the fishermen, in turn make fun of each other, giving  the guilt to one  another when the fish doesn’t  bite,  they are very likeable people as people of sea would have to be, with relaxed nerves and a great sense of the humour,  I  gladly chat with them  discovering who produces a local Wine called Cheo and other people who comes from Viterbo, from Rome or  Switzerland, who have bought house  here in order to pass the vacations, It would appeal  to me to own an house here but the price of a house goes around the 250,000€ benchmark , that leaves me with the wish only.

The life in the Cinque Terre  is spent in harmony  with the raise of the Sun, leading one owns  activity during the day in order then, to withdraw oneself towards the sunset, followed by  supper  then a walk in order to digest with the addition of  Artisan Ice cream ( Gelato) but nothing more , and to Me all this me suits very well, at  10.30-11.00 pm  you  gladly sleep in order then to raise soon naturally  the following morning, I spends three days in total tranquillity . I would like  to remain a bit more curious to know more about the Receptionist of the Campsite that asks to me if I stop a bit longer, but wanting to go ahead and not understanding , I wave her goodbye passing  a last time from the half-deserted beach with one hand on the heart and one on the throttle I  salute the Cinque Terre heading to Bologna.

The arrival in  Bologna  is always a pleasant experience, in this occasion the weather is  torrid and sultry and  every time that I stop at a traffic light I feel like tearing my clothes apart, I recognize all around to me, the erratic and irregular driving style of the Italians, the vision of Hills, the Basilica of Saint Luca and the ways that in my  childhood i used to cover  with the  bicycle, awakening almost forgotten memories dusted by time and a sense of belongings difficult to explain, I drive up and down explore it all like a tourist amusing myself of a one way system that wasn’t there before  or a new constructed road,  driving into the City centre greeting the Two Towers and Piazza Maggiore (major Square) it’s always a pleasure to return home until the memories arises remind me why I have left it all behind my  shoulders.

The first days I run  right and left like an Entrepreneur full of appointments, greeting all the friends which refresh me of the news, I go to a wedding , go around the Hills by Motorbike   and with the aid of two friends that are offering their technical support at  their workshop we put on the Motorbike  a flashing New Rear Tyre ready to eat the tarmac away, only towards the last days I succeed to spend a bit of time with my relatives which always sees me very little.

At  the tenth day directed towards the  Stelvio Pass in the very hearts of Italian Dolomities  I am glad to leave again, alarm clock set at  4.oo a.m. and the departure at 5 a.m. I load the bike once again with the bags become heavier stacked with Italian Delicatessen , waiving goodbye to my Mother who exchanges waving Her arms from the terrace, instinctively knowing that She is a bit sad  seeing me leaving again.

I enter all provincial roads in order to avoid the highway tolls enjoying the countryside landscapes passing  Modena, Parma and Brescia where I  begin to meet the first motorcyclist, already  several, they all go  in my same direction the sky without clouds prospect a perfect day, the motorcyclist are indeed many we cross galleries after galleries informing one  with the other of an hidden speed camera, passing the Lago D’ Iseo (Iseo Lake) for my first time but without stopping,  following the procession of bikes  I limit myself to observe it while shooting straight towards Passa di Gavia, following a suggestion of a friend back in Bologna. The road shoots straight up breathtakingly through bends that soons  become hairpin, the road tightens  more and more to the point that also by Motorcycle one must pay attention who travels in the opposite sense of directions , gravel into the bends with reduced visibility, gorges on the side of the road  that when you look down it seems that they have their  mouth open, ready  to swallow you if mistake one maneuver I ask myself: where the heck I am going? if they remove the tarmac  we can call it a Mule track! but the Pictures of the Mountains tops with the snow that melting goes to form infinite streams and small waterfalls towards the greens valley at the foot of the Mountains are like  postcards, stopping to take photo always being careful to park the Motorbike in the rite sense of direction, with front toward the top, the bike is so heavy that I could not make it with the aid of my force alone, to do a reversal manoeuvre.  In succeeding to reach the  summit I’m very happy for being still intact and with the aid of a cyclist I pose for the classic  photos in front of the sign: Shelter Passes of Gavia, when I notice three gentleman that observe my motorbike, bending on their knees at times to better check how all this bags manage to hang on it at midair, pointing then at  the number plate not understanding the Nation of origins then making comments to each other. I decide to approach them with a warm  CIAO! ah but you are Italian! , it answers one of the three, Yes  I come from Bologna I answer, from Bologna?! he  says astounded, Beh! with that number plate? I come  from London, but I have gone wide passing from Barcelona, Whaaat? He  beats again, No let me  understand, you come  from London  passing from Barcelona and have made all this road alone? Yes, I say, and now where you directed? Towards the Passo of the Stelvio then the Glacier of Grossglockner in Austria, followed from Lake Kostanz passing then for the Black Forest in Germany and getting closer to Calais passing from BelgiumI think  that they should give you a medal  you know?! it answers at the same time watching the friends astounded. They continue making me thousand of questions which I answer to all of them  a gladly giving me a  thousands compliments, they come from Parma: Marco, Gianni and Paolo and as real Emiliani we bond immediately like Bread and Nutella, Marco asks if he can take some photos to the Bike to show to  His daughter that lives in London, I accepts very gladly then we take one together resting like two companions that have made the war together, with the  arms high on the shoulders and two smiles that shine of sincerity, I then jump in saddle  helped by them to make a reversal manoeuvre, all three of them pushing me backward as  the mechanics do when they push the Pilots outside from the Pit lane , starting the bike,  engage first gear  saluting them with my  left arm to the sky  with the two  fingers V-shaped  I head true toward the Stelvio Pass well glad to have met them, with the spirit raised from flatteries and a great smile on my lips I understand what  the Mountaineers feels when they reach the Shelter at the summit and they find the hospitality that they deserve.

The Stelvio Pass is very close the sign only indicate few more miles while the roads widens more and more, when i notice the first number that signal the first of  44  hairpins bends, which the Stelvio is famous for, when  I raise the head  BAM! the summit is up there, with all its hairpin bends that gently caresses the crest of the mountain, and I laugh, laugh and keep laughing inside the Helmet not believing what I am seeing  , being Sunday the are hundreds of motorcyclist climbing it, there are Police officers giving indication in the blind bends, stopped  along the path I observe the motorcyclist climbing  up, they look like hundreds of ants that follow the trail of the bike in front all heading towards that Anthill called Summit where it seem a country fair , motorcycle parked everywhere, bikes stuck in the traffic struggling to find a way through ,  skiers who tries to find a  space through the mess wearing ski boots and carrying ski on their shoulders and rows of people waiting at a  kiosk that sells Sour cabbage and Sausages, yes! it seems like a real Anthill.

Learning German

The Dolomiti has left me  with pleasant memory , directed towards  the  Glossglockner Glacier at the sign confirm me I am entering Austria, I stop to edge road to take the classic  photo, asking in Italian, the aid of a Street sweeper who’s maintaining the road dressed with its fluorescent Orange uniform, I pull out a sparkling smile  for a pair of releases then I buy the sticker  necessary  in Austria for the use of motorways, leaving a full throttle all curious to see the famous Hochalpenstrasse (High Alpine road) 48km of roads that sweeps through the  mountains, passing thousand years  rocks formations  where active waterfall appears like magic, and conifers forests  this road is considered one of the most  beautiful panoramic roads in the world. The road connects the State of Salisburgo with the Carinzia, for 18€ you  receive, a pamphlet and an adhesive  that symbolizes the centennial history , the views are not less than breathtaking making hard to  pay attention at the road ahead, the valleys looks like green Emerald carpet  and nearly convinced of being in a fairy tales I prepare myself  to find a small wooden house with Hansel and Gretel inside.

The Glacier is enormous, the biggest and meanest one that I ever seen,  If I stretch an arm out, it  seems your are able to touch it even if  its stand  300 metres away with its peaks sometimes hidden from clouds and the ice sheet in constant movement , with an altitude of 3798 Meters it is the highest present in Austria and the Oriental Alps.

Descending I succeeds to find accommodation in a mountain Chalet, just before the arrival of a thunderstorm , the kind Owner lets me to park the motorcycle in the garage and gives a reduced price of 35€ for a double room with all the optional. All day the thunderstorm does not allow me to go far away even if I would want to, near mountain of the Wilder Kaiser, so I decide to pass the evening at the restaurant where I eat for two, where I meet an angel with Blonds hairs in traditional  Tyrolean costume called Nina, much likeable, when speaking  with a German accent  able to revive the sexual desire even in a  dead men ,   at the Bar I am trying  with every  excuse, to start a conversation without to be banal even if the insufficient communication and Her  basic English we only succeed to understand us at times leaving the topic of conversation at small talks, as I would want  to speak German in this moment,   returned in my room I laying on the bed  watching the ceiling  feeling that this travel is almost reached its end.

The  following morning  waving Nina goodbye I  leave Austria in the middle of a  thunderstorm towards the Germany, where I make a stopover at Lake Kostanz , a natural Lake  formed from the River Rhein that covers a space of 570 squares Km.  spending two hours at the local Theraml baths where in a Sauna I make an encounter  wich i would think for the rest of the day. She is lying naked on the wooden benches, her body half-hidden by a towel, a  beautiful German girl with a perfect breast and a physique borrowed  from the goddess of Beauty Venus in this room full of steam that makes her even more

attractive and mysterious,  seated in front of Her I attract attention and we exchange a small chat  on the benches of wood until Her friend appears taking Her away, a bit disappointed but 5 year younger i leave the sauna.

In the evening in the public square with the  local people I watch the game of Holland-Uruguay before returning in the Hostel preparing for the  following morning  for the  ancient black Forest. The name originates  in times when the forest of conifers was still impenetrable, it  has an area that occupies 12.000 squared kilometres and a  the summit the endless Horizon is covered by the Forest, they says that in these dark forest are populated by Werewolf and Demons who assume thousand shapes,  and that the balance of the Forest is maintained from a small population of Dwarfs,  but ill-fated I  encounter nobody at my passage. Exited from the  Forest I am in the need of company, I decided to go to Koblenz to meet two girls Nina and Susanna, which I meet in Belgium some month before, I have the address but not  telephone number even if I am not sure to find them  I try however. I find their address in a Small Village dispersed in the German countryside,  where at  the I meet  Peter at the door, the boyfriend of Susanna, very surprised in seeing me I quickly explain why, and what I am doing here, He then tells me that Susanna and  Nina are at theirs parent’s house not far away, then He calls them  informing them of my arrival. They are very happy and surprised  to see me, they   invite me to the pub for the evening to watch  Germany-Holland playing.

After the delusional match we return at the house drinking  beer in the garden in the pitch dark , the Stars are so many that I nearly forgot that they exist, I observe them for more than a minute almost hallucinated  at their vision wishing  to pass the night sleeping  under the  Stars, but Susanna and Peter are offering me their Couch for the Night, offer that i gladly accept being prepared to camp in the garden. For how much people  have always spoken to me negatively about the Germans like cold persons, I always convince myself  more that the Germans are only extremely reserved people and once you’re braking their shell they are exactly the opposite, they just have to know you. The following morning as German traditions dictates, is the man job to go to the bakery to buy breakfast, and as Peter as already left for work, I gladly offer to go myself to repay the hospitality given me for the night.

Passing in the Netherlands I decide that it is the moment to take a well deserved break, spending the Night in Maastricht, in that little tip of Netherlands that sits in between Germany and Belgium, finding accommodation in a Botel where the owner lets me park the bike for the Night on board of the Ship  finding it bizarre but we are in the Netherland and bizarre here is always on the menu. Next day in Luxembourg City I have a last  pleasant surprise. The small city that goes  up  and down with the steepest  road  and ancient Walls that surround the city and with its three spoken languages, French, German and Luxembourgish and a financial and important world-wide center the City remains one of most unusual in Europe.

At the Hostel I ask advice at the receptionist for the best place to go for Nightlife, where it seems that is all really happening, hordes of young people are drinking and chatting away,  observing it all i notice that they are speaking in German, for then switch in French at the arrival of someone new, and the girls are all dressed impeccable and are beautiful, tall and blonde like German girls but with delicate French features a mix of beauty hard to forget .

During a nocturnal exploration on foot I discover a premises  loaded with so much energy not to believe it , the Cafe`Des Artist founded in 1940 as thee name suggests, was a meeting point for local Artists, even if during the years the Artist have decreased the Art remains still. Attracted from the music and the choruses of people I enter only to meet a Lady on Her 50’s  that plays the piano with Her sigarette smoking in the ashtray beside,  the customers that sings along , songs are sung in German, Luxembourgish , French and also Spanish , a magical place where since I stepped in I felt surrounded by friends, convinced to have uncovered the True Essence of the City in the heart of Luxembourg, I sing along.

At this point of the travels now three weeks,  I spend the  greater part of my time on the road,  living  on the road I finding comfort where there is a road t, the road is alive, the road is my friend,  She speaks and  guides  me towards the Horizon, I feel safe when I see it laying before Me.

On the way home in a reflective mood I ask myself which is the price to pay for all this freedom ? knowing in the heart that normality is about to set in,  with a bit of sadness trying to find solution I start to consider the idea of what would happened if you continued to go on, if you continued until I can continue, what would happen to me? I notice  to have been bitten by  the pleasure of Travel, a bite difficult to forget, all these memories destined to fade away slowly with time, carries an even bigger desire to re create  new ones.

Reached London it seems to be still travelling,  I notice taht I am no longer that foreigner on that Motorcycle loaded with bags everywhere and that  strange number plate, encircled from even stranger number plates , I recognize all around me,I re-enter the House only to be greeted from a heap of letters under the door one of which reveals to be a parking fine  nearly expired, that my memory cannot even recall,  a bit of dust around and an  empty refrigerator smelling badly,  but the I see again the map of the World hunged on the wall, I approach , it seems beautiful, I remain to fix it noticing  Europe and with a finger tracing a new imaginary route I plan a new Trip toward far away lands still unknown to me.


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